Travel
Maldives Heavenly Islands
Heaven on earth


Seen from the sky as the plane starts to lower its altitude, the long and narrow chain of natural atolls looks like an abstract painting of small cells floating on a canvas of deer blue. Patches of sparkling turquoise water contrast with the white stripes of beach sand along the borders of the small islands. A friend and I are landing in the Maldives, an island nation composed of some islands scattered in the middle of the Indian Ocean.
At the Ibrahim Nasir International Airport, At the Ibrahim Nasir International Airport, Lone is instantly hit by the atmosphere of tour packages and holiday brochures as groups of tourists wait to be picked up by tour operators, to be transferred by speedboat or seaplane to their dream island. For decades the archipelago has been an exclusive destination thriving on luxury tourism, the main source of income. The first resort was opened in 1972, and currently there are more than 100 private islands which have been developed as resorts, while some 200 are inhabited by Maldivians.
Transportation from the airport has been arranged by our guesthouse. We exchange some US dollars into Rufiyaa and are taken to Hulumale, a mere 15-minute drive connected to the airport and a popular stopover on the way to other islands. Hulumale is a rectangular mass of land built not far from Male island, the world’s smallest capital, and one of the most densely populated cities in the world.
The lack of development and infrastructure in the rural and remote islands have urged its residents to move to the capital in search of better education and job opportunities. Accommodating the newcomers has proved challenging and today roughly 130,000 residents live crammed in high-rise buildings on a tiny piece of land not even six square meters.
Maldives is a low lying country and the highest island lies no higher than 2.4m. The quick rising of water will eventually result in the drowning of the islands. The challenges are big and it is not surprising that the country is on the front line of climate change. A few islands have already been evacuated and imperative solutions are needed. The survival of the nation island is at stake.
While former president Nasheed announced a plan to buy land elsewhere to relocate the population, the strategies of the new government under President Abdulla Yameen, elected in 2013, have taken a different turn. His strategy focuses on renting out islands and using the money to reclaim and build new flood-resistant ones.

Hulumale–the City of Hope in Dhivehi language- is an island that has grown out of the sea. Its construction began in 1997 and it is the most ambitious geo-engineering project in Maldives. It now houses some 40,000 people with a target goal of 240,000 residents. Built with large avenues lined up with trees, Hulumale still looks like a construction site.
Our resort is only accessible by seaplane. The next day, we arrive at the terminal and are taken to the resort designated lounge where we can see the seaplanes take off and land. The ambiance and staff service in the lounge feels already like a prelude to our destination. We are served juice and sandwiches while we wait for the rest of the passengers.
It’s a 30-minute scenic flight before the overwater bungalows of Coco Palm Dulhi Kolhu Island in the form of a palm leaf come into view. We disembark onto a floating platform and we board a boat that takes us to shore where we are welcomed by the manager. The island sets its own unofficial time and runs one hour ahead of Male so that guests have more of a full day.
Here one feels miles away from the chaos and noise of the city. A sandy path runs across the island and the lush greenery is well-kept and manicured, to create an idyllic and secluded atmosphere. It is the end of December and the resort’s guests are mostly families and couples from Europe on Christmas and New Year’s vacation.
I start to grow curious about how such an impeccable and isolated set up operates behind the scenes. With the limited resources of the Maldives, I wonder how the resorts manage electricity and drinking water and how they dispose of waste; how do they respect and maintain the natural and fragile ecosystems with minimal disturbance? How can luxury be compatible with sustainability?
Not an easy task when the Maldives receives millions of tourists every year. With the introduction of a Green Tax in 2015, resorts have been encouraged to minimize and counteract the negative impacts of tourism. Coco Palm is listed as one of the most eco-friendliest resorts in the Maldives, with a focus on endangered turtles.
I find out that the island operates independently. Two low noise generators supply electricity and drinking water is produced and bottled on-property. An efficient sewage plant treats used water and biodegradable cleaning products are used to achieve this. Plastic bags and bottles are banned by using better alternatives. For example, toiletries are refilled into glass bottles and ceramic containers.

Maldives is a low-lying country and the highest island lies no higher than 2.4m. The quick rising of water will eventually result in the drowning of the islands. A few islands have already been evacuated and imperative solutions are needed. The survival of the nation island is at stake
Even though Maldives is a Muslim country and sharia law is applied, resorts are allowed to exist in a bubble and almost anything goes. Alcohol and pork products are consumed and swimwear and bikinis are accepted. Actually, many tourists leave the Maldives with little or no idea of how life in a local island looks like.
In recent years, life has started to change. In 2009, the former president Nasheed broke the stronghold of luxury resorts owned by foreign companies. Tourists are now allowed to stay in local islands. Platforms like Airbnb and Couch surfing have gained popularity and there has been a massive increase in guest houses run by locals.

Gulhi Island is our next choice to spend the rest of our vacation. Easily accessible from Male, we catch the dhoni – local boat – at 3 pm. It is filled with local residents; the women wear the hijab and I count only five foreigners on board. It’s a 90-minute ride before we arrive in tiny and sleepy Gulhi. Our simple and budget guesthouse is within a short walk from the jetty.
We meet Cherry, a young and laid-back Chinese woman. She runs the guesthouse. Two years ago, after her first visit in Gulhi, she decided to start a hospitality business on the island and moved there to escape from a busy life in a crowded city in eastern China. She rented a house from a local family, did some renovation work and turned it into a guesthouse. To help her she hired a cook, Peter, also Chinese, and Rafa.
Rafa is an amicable young Bangladeshi in his early 20’s. He has been living and working in Gulhi for almost two years. When I ask him how he finds life in Gulhi, he frowns with a smile. “It is too quiet here. It can get really boring. I want to go back to Bangladesh. I miss my family.”
In less than half an hour, you have seen everything from one end to the other: local men building boats at the oldest shipyard; local women hanging on swings and selling their crafts or playing in the afternoon in the volleyball ground; children playing and running around; a few people hanging out in the couple of cafes and the few tourists getting a tan on the bikini beach tucked away and equipped with sun loungers and parasols.
Now it’s about time to step back and embrace the local rhythms dictated by this particular island environment before we leave. The Maldives is not only sea, sun, and sand. Beyond the resorts, there is a truly unique way of life and cultural mix to be discovered.
Travel
Discovering Indonesia: A Personal Journey Through Islands and Culture

By Ayman Munaf
Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.
Jakarta
Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.
Yogyakarta
After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.



Bali
After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.
Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.


My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.

Pink Beach
Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.
Culture
Discovering the Charms of Sri Lanka

By Wajiha Farooq
Imagine a tiny island surrounded by a big, blue ocean!
Known as the jewel in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is a land of ancient history, vibrant culture and breathtaking landscape, creating an unforgettable experience for visitors. From mist-shrouded mountains and beaches to the astonishing scenic beauty, this island nation is a delight for travelers.
Nature in Sri Lanka comes as a breath of fresh air. With wild animals such as elephants and leopards running around forests and jungles, the Wilpattu Reserve stands out in the list. Elephants are abundant in the country and Colombo even has an elephant orphanage, which tourists love to visit. If you like plants and trees, Kandy’s Royal Botanical Garden is the place to be in with the largest tree spread on both sides and its branches supported by thick sticks. Nuwara Eliya on a height has lush green hills covered in tea bushes. And not to forget, the waterfall known as Hunas Falls is like giant showers from the sky. For a first-time visitor, it was indeed a treat to visit this island.

Not only did we see scenic beauty, we also had the opportunity to step back in time as we explored the traces of ancient civilizations that have left their mark on the island. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, with its towering rock fortress, is a testament to the originality of Sri Lanka’s ancestors. Wandering through the ruins of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, once bustling capitals of mighty kingdoms, we marvelled at the intricately-carved temples and stupas that dot the landscape.

No visit to Sri Lanka is complete without a journey through lush green tea gardens. The scenic train ride through the rolling hills of Nuwara Eliya, where emerald-green tea plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, it is a treat to see a tea factory, witness the time-honoured process of tea production and savour a freshly brewed cup of Ceylon tea while soaking in breathtaking scenery.
Our next stopover was the pristine coastline; Sri Lanka boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. From the tranquil shores of Mirissa to the surf break of Arugam Bay, there’s a beach for every taste. Diving into the crystal-clear water of Hikkaduwa to explore vibrant coral reefs and unwinding on the soft sands of Trincomalee, the trip turned out to be a pure delight.
The country’s diverse religious landscape, reflected in its festivals and rituals, is another aspect that might catch your attention. We were lucky to witness the annual Esala Perahera in Kandy, which is a spectacular procession honouring the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, featuring colourful parades, traditional music and elaborated costumes. Another one was the Tamil Thai Pongal Festival, where farmers celebrate the harvest season with prayers and feast, showcasing the importance of agriculture in Sri Lankan culture.

The most interesting part of the visit was the warmth and hospitality of the Sri Lankan people. From the bustling market of Colombo to the remote villages of the hill country, we were greeted with smiles and open arms, whether sharing meals with the local family or participating in a traditional ceremony. We were also enchanted by their leather goods, wood items and crockery and everyone in our group went on a buying spree.
Despite its rich cultural heritage and traditions, Sri Lanka has faced its recent share of challenges, including a decade long civil war that started in 1983 and ended in 2009, and natural disasters such as the 2004 tsunami. However, the resilience and spirit of its people have enabled the country to overcome adversity and emerge as a great tourist destination.
Culture
Unforgettable Memories of Smoky Mountains

By Shanaz Ramzi
When my husband and I were planning a trip to the US, we roped in some of our friends to agree to meet up at a destination unexplored by any of us.
The destination we chose was the Smoky Mountains, located in Tennessee. My husband and I chose to drive there, stopping en route at Charlotte in North Carolina, four hours away, for the night. Determined not to miss the opportunity to see a new city, we checked into our hotel, Ballantine, and soon after made our way uptown. We had heard there were some amazing museums in Charlotte, but unfortunately by the time we reached their vicinity and finally found parking, most of the museums had closed. However, luckily, Mint Museum which was also on our to-see list was open, and we eagerly explored its galleries. Established in 1936 as North Carolina’s first art museum, The Mint Museum is a leading, innovative cultural institution of international art and design, boasting permanent collections of contemporary art, craft, ceramics and more.
Happy that we managed to get at least some time at the museum before it too shut down, we took a stroll in the uptown area, taking note of the many interesting museums this small city had to offer, and stopping to eat their famous Golden Cow Creamery ice cream, which was a bit disappointing, unfortunately.

We set off for the Smoky Mountains next morning. A scenic drive brought us to the cabin that had been booked atop the mountains by one of our friends, and being the first to arrive, from our group of seven we spent our time unpacking and exploring the amazing three-floor facility. We spent a relaxing night chatting till late and devouring the scrumptious food that the two couples had brought that could feed an army for a month!
The next morning, we left for downtown Gatlinburg, a happening, quaint, and touristy area with restaurants, activities and shops. We took a cable car ride to Anakeesta, an adventure park located on the Smoky Mountain range, and despite the heat, enjoyed our trek there. It is a lovely place to bring children to for the whole day, culminating with Lumina Village which only comes alive at night. Back on ground level, we made a beeline for Mexican Grill, and didn’t regret our choice as the food was scrumptious and plentiful, as is normally the case anywhere in the US.
While we were still eating, it began to pour and discovered the reason behind Smoky Mountain’s name. As it started to pour a thick fog developed over the mountains giving the impression that the mountains were smoking!

The next morning, we set off for Pigeon Forge, which is nothing short of Las Vegas for children and families. With some attraction at literally every block and each so eye-catching that we wanted to visit them all. Finally, we decided to visit Titanic, a fantastic recreation of the ill-fated ship on its maiden voyage to the US, it had all of us engrossed in its interactive offerings by treating us as one of the passengers or crew members who were actually on board the ship that fatal night, while simultaneously providing us with a wealth of information about the creation of the unique ship, its beleaguered passengers, and the calamity they faced.
Returning to the cabin for a light lunch, we relaxed for a bit and then got dressed for a dinner show we had booked for later that day. The choices were plentiful, but most were again geared toward kids. Hence, we selected the one that had the most appeal for adults, the Hayfield and McCoy dinner show, especially as the one we would have all preferred – the Dolly Parton show as this was her hometown after all – was not being offered then. A fun, action-packed, farcical musical depicting the famous feud between cousins Hayfields and McCoys, it keeps you entertained while serving you all-you-can-eat Southern homestyle food. It was another story that some of us had to satiate ourselves with salad, mashed potatoes and corn on the cob, as the chicken was not halal.

We had kept the next day for exploring the Smoky Mountain National Park Drive as we felt we couldn’t possibly go back without at least hiking a bit in the mountains. So, we walked around the park, sat around the creek, and enjoyed the refreshing air before heading back home for lunch.
The night turned out to hold a triple treat for all of us. Not only did we spend a delightful time catching up with old friends, and eating delicious grilled fish, but the aroma from all the barbecuing on the balcony drew out a whole family of bears right under our cabin, in the forest below. As they looked up staring at us, we counted our blessings that we were at the height that we were, and took their videos. And then, to top it all, it was a blue moon night, so we saw the most amazing and rare sight from a vantage point. We couldn’t have asked for more!
The next morning, we packed up all our belongings – which seemed to be as much as when we had arrived despite consuming so much food – and made our way to the airport to drop off our friends and head back to our next destination.
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