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A sort of mild melancholy invades me when arrive in Tbilisi, my first stop in Georgia. After having spent the past weeks cycling through the mountains and countryside of Armenia, entering the bustling city life feels for the moment like being out of place.

I often choose to stay with locals in the cities. It’s not only a way to save money on accommodation, but most importantly it’s a great opportunity to make new friends and feel at home in a foreign place. You learn about their country, culture and traditions from the inside and they learn from yours. However, in Tbilisi, no one is expecting me. My host, a member of a hospitality exchange community, canceled last minute and I am left to my own resources amidst the traffic, noise and the heat of mid-summer.

Tbilisi has an overwhelming choice of affordable hostels. I choose to stay in a guesthouse in Vera district, a quiet and green neighbourhood nestling on a hillside within short walking distance from the Rustaveli Avenue, a central avenue in Tbilisi. The guesthouse is located in a narrow lane above a steep slope and I seem to be the only quest in this newly opened hostel. 

Tbilisi is the pulse of Georgia, a tiny country in the Caucasus region with an interesting fusion of European, Middle-Eastern and Soviet culture. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the country declared its independence in 1991. For most of the following decade, post-Soviet Georgia suffered from economic instability and political corruption until the Rose Revolution in November, 2003. The peaceful protests culminated with a change of power and the resignation of Eduard Shevardnadze who had ruled the country for more than 30 years.

Georgia has since then turned to the West to foster its new identity away from its Soviet past, and Tbilisi has started to emerge as a business hub and cosmopolitan city. In 2010, the government started an enthusiastic Programme to revitalize the city and the development of the tourist industry has made Georgia and its capital very accessible and attractive to foreign visitors. Travelers of all kinds have started to flock there.

On my first stroll through the city, I approach the Old Historic District along the Sololaki Alley, a shaded and pine-scented path that runs along the flank of the hill overlooking the city. Hypnotized by the summer cacophony of cicadas, I soon come across some of the most picturesque views of the city. Tbilisi greets you with its eclectic range of buildings and structures spanning on both sides of the Mktvari river. The pretty facades and modern architecture contrast with overgrown balconies and dilapidated constructions leaning at weird angles; an odd sight of prosperity and decay at once. 

At the end of the Sololaki Alley emerges the ruins of the Narikala fortress and the St. Nicholas church dominating the skyline. The fortress dates back to the 4th century and Old Tbilisi has grown below its walls in a maze of kalas or twisting lanes. Below, the Meidan Square is reached by a cobblestone lane quickly identified by the pungent scent of Sulphur and the collection of bricked domes housing the subterranean. bathhouses of Abanotubani. Tbilisi sits on Sulphur water and even the city is named after it. In Georgia tbili means warm.

On the way back to the guest house I walk through the commercial hub parallel to the river, a string of narrow and traffic-free lanes along Sioni street, Erekle t II and Shavteli. Inviting cafes, modern restaurants and art galleries succeed one another amidst historic monuments and old churches, like the Sioni Cathedral and the Jvaris Mama church.

Throughout my travels, I have experienced various forms of bathhouse culture around the world: the Japanese onsen, the Moroccan hammam, the Russian banya and the Finnish sauna. Going to the public bath in Tbilisi seems like an experience not to miss and the next day I go back to Abanotubani District. There are a few bathhouses to choose from, but there is only one that has a communal bath split into male and female, mostly used by locals. For 3 lari – less than 1 Euro- I go to Bath No. 5. 

Expecting a communal pool to soak in the women’s section, there is only a communal shower. After removing all your clothes in a shared changing room, you enter a large room with individual head showers. The water is very hot and steamy and you adjust the temperature with splashes of cold water. For an additional charge, you can also get a scrub massage. I am somehow disappointed there is no pool to relax my stiff muscles, and am done in less than 15 minutes. It seems that only the private tiled rooms, aimed mostly for tourists and priced higher with additional services, have pools. 

I cross the river to the Dezerter’s Market near the kle train station. Even though modern Georgians prefer ints nowadays to shop in supermarkets and convenience oric stores sprouting everywhere, the Dezerter’s Market iral remains the major central market of Tbilisi. Visiting local markets is always a good way to feel the pulse of a place and discover the local homemade products. ous I stroll through stalls of fruits and vegetables, spices, he cheese and meat, and churchkhela sticks, a traditional an homemade candle-shaped candy made from grape, nuts and flour. They are sweet and richly textured and can he be eaten as a snack or dessert.

 I spend four days in Tbilisi. Every day, the weather is e, getting hotter and more humid in August, and I find it Jo difficult to enjoy Tbilisi. I know it’s time to continue to the cooler weather of the Caucasus Mountains. Cycling out of Tbilisi, I notice I am leaving in the same mood ‘s when I first arrived; I feel a lack of connection to the place. I realize that despite having visited some of the beautiful sights, I leave Tbilisi without having made any new friend and I do miss not having created any meaningful story with its people.

 A good reason to go back and spend more time later!

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Travel

Discovering Indonesia: A Personal Journey Through Islands and Culture

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By Ayman Munaf

Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.

Jakarta

Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.

Yogyakarta

After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.

National Monument (Monas)

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Kecak dance

Bali

After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.

Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.

Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Komodo Island

My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.

Pink Beach

Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.

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Culture

Discovering the Charms of Sri Lanka

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By Wajiha Farooq

Imagine a tiny island surrounded by a big, blue ocean!
Known as the jewel in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is a land of ancient history, vibrant culture and breathtaking landscape, creating an unforgettable experience for visitors. From mist-shrouded mountains and beaches to the astonishing scenic beauty, this island nation is a delight for travelers.

Nature in Sri Lanka comes as a breath of fresh air. With wild animals such as elephants and leopards running around forests and jungles, the Wilpattu Reserve stands out in the list. Elephants are abundant in the country and Colombo even has an elephant orphanage, which tourists love to visit. If you like plants and trees, Kandy’s Royal Botanical Garden is the place to be in with the largest tree spread on both sides and its branches supported by thick sticks. Nuwara Eliya on a height has lush green hills covered in tea bushes. And not to forget, the waterfall known as Hunas Falls is like giant showers from the sky. For a first-time visitor, it was indeed a treat to visit this island.

Not only did we see scenic beauty, we also had the opportunity to step back in time as we explored the traces of ancient civilizations that have left their mark on the island. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, with its towering rock fortress, is a testament to the originality of Sri Lanka’s ancestors. Wandering through the ruins of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, once bustling capitals of mighty kingdoms, we marvelled at the intricately-carved temples and stupas that dot the landscape.



No visit to Sri Lanka is complete without a journey through lush green tea gardens. The scenic train ride through the rolling hills of Nuwara Eliya, where emerald-green tea plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, it is a treat to see a tea factory, witness the time-honoured process of tea production and savour a freshly brewed cup of Ceylon tea while soaking in breathtaking scenery.

Our next stopover was the pristine coastline; Sri Lanka boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. From the tranquil shores of Mirissa to the surf break of Arugam Bay, there’s a beach for every taste. Diving into the crystal-clear water of Hikkaduwa to explore vibrant coral reefs and unwinding on the soft sands of Trincomalee, the trip turned out to be a pure delight.

The country’s diverse religious landscape, reflected in its festivals and rituals, is another aspect that might catch your attention. We were lucky to witness the annual Esala Perahera in Kandy, which is a spectacular procession honouring the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, featuring colourful parades, traditional music and elaborated costumes. Another one was the Tamil Thai Pongal Festival, where farmers celebrate the harvest season with prayers and feast, showcasing the importance of agriculture in Sri Lankan culture.

 

The most interesting part of the visit was the warmth and hospitality of the Sri Lankan people. From the bustling market of Colombo to the remote villages of the hill country, we were greeted with smiles and open arms, whether sharing meals with the local family or participating in a traditional ceremony. We were also enchanted by their leather goods, wood items and crockery and everyone in our group went on a buying spree.

Despite its rich cultural heritage and traditions, Sri Lanka has faced its recent share of challenges, including a decade long civil war that started in 1983 and ended in 2009, and natural disasters such as the 2004 tsunami. However, the resilience and spirit of its people have enabled the country to overcome adversity and emerge as a great tourist destination.

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Culture

Unforgettable Memories of Smoky Mountains

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By Shanaz Ramzi

When my husband and I were planning a trip to the US, we roped in some of our friends to agree to meet up at a destination unexplored by any of us.

The destination we chose was the Smoky Mountains, located in Tennessee. My husband and I chose to drive there, stopping en route at Charlotte in North Carolina, four hours away, for the night. Determined not to miss the opportunity to see a new city, we checked into our hotel, Ballantine, and soon after made our way uptown. We had heard there were some amazing museums in Charlotte, but unfortunately by the time we reached their vicinity and finally found parking, most of the museums had closed. However, luckily, Mint Museum which was also on our to-see list was open, and we eagerly explored its galleries. Established in 1936 as North Carolina’s first art museum, The Mint Museum is a leading, innovative cultural institution of international art and design, boasting permanent collections of contemporary art, craft, ceramics and more.

Happy that we managed to get at least some time at the museum before it too shut down, we took a stroll in the uptown area, taking note of the many interesting museums this small city had to offer, and stopping to eat their famous Golden Cow Creamery ice cream, which was a bit disappointing, unfortunately.

We set off for the Smoky Mountains next morning. A scenic drive brought us to the cabin that had been booked atop the mountains by one of our friends, and being the first to arrive, from our group of seven we spent our time unpacking and exploring the amazing three-floor facility. We spent a relaxing night chatting till late and devouring the scrumptious food that the two couples had brought that could feed an army for a month!

The next morning, we left for downtown Gatlinburg, a happening, quaint, and touristy area with restaurants, activities and shops. We took a cable car ride to Anakeesta, an adventure park located on the Smoky Mountain range, and despite the heat, enjoyed our trek there. It is a lovely place to bring children to for the whole day, culminating with Lumina Village which only comes alive at night. Back on ground level, we made a beeline for Mexican Grill, and didn’t regret our choice as the food was scrumptious and plentiful, as is normally the case anywhere in the US.

 While we were still eating, it began to pour and discovered the reason behind Smoky Mountain’s name. As it started to pour a thick fog developed over the mountains giving the impression that the mountains were smoking!

The next morning, we set off for Pigeon Forge, which is nothing short of Las Vegas for children and families. With some attraction at literally every block and each so eye-catching that we wanted to visit them all. Finally, we decided to visit Titanic, a fantastic recreation of the ill-fated ship on its maiden voyage to the US, it had all of us engrossed in its interactive offerings by treating us as one of the passengers or crew members who were actually on board the ship that fatal night, while simultaneously providing us with a wealth of information about the creation of the unique ship, its beleaguered passengers, and the calamity they faced.

Returning to the cabin for a light lunch, we relaxed for a bit and then got dressed for a dinner show we had booked for later that day. The choices were plentiful, but most were again geared toward kids. Hence, we selected the one that had the most appeal for adults, the Hayfield and McCoy dinner show, especially as the one we would have all preferred – the Dolly Parton show as this was her hometown after all – was not being offered then. A fun, action-packed, farcical musical depicting the famous feud between cousins Hayfields and McCoys, it keeps you entertained while serving you all-you-can-eat Southern homestyle food. It was another story that some of us had to satiate ourselves with salad, mashed potatoes and corn on the cob, as the chicken was not halal.

We had kept the next day for exploring the Smoky Mountain National Park Drive as we felt we couldn’t possibly go back without at least hiking a bit in the mountains. So, we walked around the park, sat around the creek, and enjoyed the refreshing air before heading back home for lunch.

The night turned out to hold a triple treat for all of us. Not only did we spend a delightful time catching up with old friends, and eating delicious grilled fish, but the aroma from all the barbecuing on the balcony drew out a whole family of bears right under our cabin, in the forest below. As they looked up staring at us, we counted our blessings that we were at the height that we were, and took their videos. And then, to top it all, it was a blue moon night, so we saw the most amazing and rare sight from a vantage point. We couldn’t have asked for more!

The next morning, we packed up all our belongings – which seemed to be as much as when we had arrived despite consuming so much food – and made our way to the airport to drop off our friends and head back to our next destination.

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