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A sort of mild melancholy invades me when arrive in Tbilisi, my first stop in Georgia. After having spent the past weeks cycling through the mountains and countryside of Armenia, entering the bustling city life feels for the moment like being out of place.

I often choose to stay with locals in the cities. It’s not only a way to save money on accommodation, but most importantly it’s a great opportunity to make new friends and feel at home in a foreign place. You learn about their country, culture and traditions from the inside and they learn from yours. However, in Tbilisi, no one is expecting me. My host, a member of a hospitality exchange community, canceled last minute and I am left to my own resources amidst the traffic, noise and the heat of mid-summer.

Tbilisi has an overwhelming choice of affordable hostels. I choose to stay in a guesthouse in Vera district, a quiet and green neighbourhood nestling on a hillside within short walking distance from the Rustaveli Avenue, a central avenue in Tbilisi. The guesthouse is located in a narrow lane above a steep slope and I seem to be the only quest in this newly opened hostel. 

Tbilisi is the pulse of Georgia, a tiny country in the Caucasus region with an interesting fusion of European, Middle-Eastern and Soviet culture. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the country declared its independence in 1991. For most of the following decade, post-Soviet Georgia suffered from economic instability and political corruption until the Rose Revolution in November, 2003. The peaceful protests culminated with a change of power and the resignation of Eduard Shevardnadze who had ruled the country for more than 30 years.

Georgia has since then turned to the West to foster its new identity away from its Soviet past, and Tbilisi has started to emerge as a business hub and cosmopolitan city. In 2010, the government started an enthusiastic Programme to revitalize the city and the development of the tourist industry has made Georgia and its capital very accessible and attractive to foreign visitors. Travelers of all kinds have started to flock there.

On my first stroll through the city, I approach the Old Historic District along the Sololaki Alley, a shaded and pine-scented path that runs along the flank of the hill overlooking the city. Hypnotized by the summer cacophony of cicadas, I soon come across some of the most picturesque views of the city. Tbilisi greets you with its eclectic range of buildings and structures spanning on both sides of the Mktvari river. The pretty facades and modern architecture contrast with overgrown balconies and dilapidated constructions leaning at weird angles; an odd sight of prosperity and decay at once. 

At the end of the Sololaki Alley emerges the ruins of the Narikala fortress and the St. Nicholas church dominating the skyline. The fortress dates back to the 4th century and Old Tbilisi has grown below its walls in a maze of kalas or twisting lanes. Below, the Meidan Square is reached by a cobblestone lane quickly identified by the pungent scent of Sulphur and the collection of bricked domes housing the subterranean. bathhouses of Abanotubani. Tbilisi sits on Sulphur water and even the city is named after it. In Georgia tbili means warm.

On the way back to the guest house I walk through the commercial hub parallel to the river, a string of narrow and traffic-free lanes along Sioni street, Erekle t II and Shavteli. Inviting cafes, modern restaurants and art galleries succeed one another amidst historic monuments and old churches, like the Sioni Cathedral and the Jvaris Mama church.

Throughout my travels, I have experienced various forms of bathhouse culture around the world: the Japanese onsen, the Moroccan hammam, the Russian banya and the Finnish sauna. Going to the public bath in Tbilisi seems like an experience not to miss and the next day I go back to Abanotubani District. There are a few bathhouses to choose from, but there is only one that has a communal bath split into male and female, mostly used by locals. For 3 lari – less than 1 Euro- I go to Bath No. 5. 

Expecting a communal pool to soak in the women’s section, there is only a communal shower. After removing all your clothes in a shared changing room, you enter a large room with individual head showers. The water is very hot and steamy and you adjust the temperature with splashes of cold water. For an additional charge, you can also get a scrub massage. I am somehow disappointed there is no pool to relax my stiff muscles, and am done in less than 15 minutes. It seems that only the private tiled rooms, aimed mostly for tourists and priced higher with additional services, have pools. 

I cross the river to the Dezerter’s Market near the kle train station. Even though modern Georgians prefer ints nowadays to shop in supermarkets and convenience oric stores sprouting everywhere, the Dezerter’s Market iral remains the major central market of Tbilisi. Visiting local markets is always a good way to feel the pulse of a place and discover the local homemade products. ous I stroll through stalls of fruits and vegetables, spices, he cheese and meat, and churchkhela sticks, a traditional an homemade candle-shaped candy made from grape, nuts and flour. They are sweet and richly textured and can he be eaten as a snack or dessert.

 I spend four days in Tbilisi. Every day, the weather is e, getting hotter and more humid in August, and I find it Jo difficult to enjoy Tbilisi. I know it’s time to continue to the cooler weather of the Caucasus Mountains. Cycling out of Tbilisi, I notice I am leaving in the same mood ‘s when I first arrived; I feel a lack of connection to the place. I realize that despite having visited some of the beautiful sights, I leave Tbilisi without having made any new friend and I do miss not having created any meaningful story with its people.

 A good reason to go back and spend more time later!

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Travel

Revisiting Karachi’s Interesting Places

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By Shanaz Ramzi

The class of ’75 from St Joseph’s Convent High School, held its 50th reunion recently. Our group of friends since school days were also present. While some of us live in Pakistan, many live abroad. Hence, planning the four-day reunion in Karachi was as much fun as the reunion itself, for the challenge was to pack the four days with sights and activities that even the Karachiites hadn’t seen or done in a long time.

We began day one, a Friday, with a coaster trip to our alma mater. We had coordinated with the school headmistress, Sister Margarette, who happened to have taught us too. Without anyone knowing, we had also invited our few favourite teachers to join us. Our group was as thrilled to see them as they were to see us. We took a tour of the magnificent institution, which thankfully looked largely the same as when we were in school, As it is a heritage building, with a few additions of new blocks on the premises.

After leaving the school we made our way to LuckyOne Mall, to show off the largest mall in South Asia to our visitors. We were received by their marketing department and given a guided tour of the whole mall. After partaking of lunch at the Food Court we were taken to Onederland, their amusement centre where we were treated to complimentary rides of our choice. If visiting the school hadn’t transported us to our childhood, whizzing down slides, bumping dodgem cars, and shrieking on roller coaster rides surely did!

Our next stop was Bahria Town, where we cruised through the immaculately laid out roads, and made strategic ‘international’ stops in front of the Eiffel Tower, and the Crookedest Street in the World, for photographs. After tea and ice cream at Murree Hills, we left to freshen up and then partake of an early dinner at the popular Kolachi, Do Darya, restaurant.

The next morning we started early to have brunch at the new Café Imran on the national highway. It must be said here that the long drives we had undertaken from day one turned out to be as much fun as the destinations themselves, for we transformed into giggly teenagers who burst into laughter at the smallest pretext. Laughter is indeed the best medicine, and we all felt rejuvenated despite our action-packed trips.

After brunch we set off for the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 17th century Shah Jahan Mosque, in Thatta. It was a blazingly hot day but once you stood within its corridors, the ventilation, brick structure, and amazing architecture of the mosque kept us cool and comfortable. Our next stop was Koonj Farm at Gharo, where we stopped for tea.

The third morning we set off for our city tour. Starting with Mohatta Palace, which surprisingly many were visiting for the first time, we followed it up with the well-maintained Flagstaff House, now known as Quaid e Azam House, where a knowledgeable guide informed the visitors about the history of the artifacts and the rooms on display.

Frere Hall was next, but unfortunately, was closed, being a Sunday. Considering that Sundays are more feasible for families to visit such historical sites, one hopes that the management will re-think their weekly holidays and keep the venue open over the weekend, like the other heritage sites. In fact, at Flagstaff House we were happy to note that there were other visitors also, especially foreigners, and I am sure they must have also wanted to visit Frere Hall.

We then made our way to the heart of the city, beginning with the iconic Empress Market, notoriously used for executions in the days of the British Raj, which became one of the most popular shopping sites for groceries over the years. Our next stop was Karachi Metropolitan Corporation, the erstwhile Karachi Municipal Corporation, which is also closed on Sundays, but thanks to connections, we had managed to get not only an entry into the historic building, but also a guided tour, right up to the rooftop.

Our next destination was a short distance away – the Denso Hall Rahguzar, a landscaped Walking Street, created by Heritage Foundation in 2021. In the middle of what was once a busy, dirty, over-crowded, land-grabbed lane, with shops spilling over with their wares, and motorcyclists and pushcarts jostling for space amidst pedestrians this oasis became a model street designed to mitigate the negative impact of densification and environmental degradation in Karachi’s historic core. A living testament to the adage ‘If there is a will there is a way,’ this street, paved with terracotta tiles hand-made by women who used to beg for a living, has four Miyawaki forests in the centre of the street, offering a cool respite to passersby and shoppers.

Our last stop for our city tour was TDF Ghar, a Dawood Foundation project that has converted what was initially an old residence of a Hindu family into a museum-cum-café, retaining many of the antique artifacts that belonged to the family, and adding interesting elements for the benefit of the visitors. We had brunch there and then left for Sandspit to enjoy the cool, nay cold, sea breeze blowing over the Arabian Sea, as we devoured a live scrumptious barbecue dinner, and shared stories from our past that can only be shared among old friends, no matter after how long you may be meeting them.

Our last day had been left for shopping as no girls’ trip or outing can be complete without splurging on at least some souvenirs and gifts. So, after breakfast at Khudee, which supports Down’s syndrome children by providing them internships, the morning was spent going around Bohri Bazaar and Zainab Market, and the afternoon at Dolmen Mall, Clifton. Dinner was at Creek Walk in Phase VIII where everyone had a great time trying out different gastronomical delights of their choice.

The last item on this hectic four-day itinerary was watching a movie, bringing back childhood memories of sleepovers, and culminating the reunion on a high, nostalgic and sad note that the four days had whizzed by so quickly. But it left us all determined to reschedule a reunion, in five years this time – as we can’t afford to wait another 50 anymore!

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Exploring the Wonders of China

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By Ariba Syed

China, a land where ancient history meets modern marvels, welcomed me with open arms. From the futuristic skyline of Shanghai to the timeless beauty of the Great Wall, every stop in the journey felt like stepping into a different world. The sights, the people, and the flavours of this incredible country made it a trip to remember.

My adventure began in Beijing, a city where history whispers from every corner. Standing in the middle of the vast Tiananmen Square, one couldn’t help but feel humbled by its significance. A short walk away, the Forbidden City loomed before me—an imperial palace so grand that it felt Prince like stepping back in time. Wandering through its courtyards, I imagined the emperors, princes and concubines who once lived within its walls.

Of course, no trip to Beijing is complete without seeing the Great Wall. Choosing the Mutianyu section, which was both breathtaking and less crowded I climbed those steep stone steps and paused to take in the view-rolling green hills stretching as far as the eye could see. It was one of those moments that make you feel both small and connected to something much greater.

Next up was Shanghại a city of contrasts that perfectly blends the past and future. Walking along the Bund, I was struck by the different colonial-era buildings on one side and the sleek, modern skyscrapers on the other. Strolling through Yu Garden, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city, delicate pavilions and koi-filled ponds made it easy to forget the hustle and bustle outside.

At night, I headed to the top of the Shanghai Tower and looking down at the sea of city lights felt like I was in a sci-fi movie. The energy of this place was infectious- fast paced, exciting and full of possibilities.

Xi’an was a history lover’s dream. The Terracotta Army was even more impressive in person than I had imagined. Seeing thousands of life-sized warriors standing in silent formation, each with unique facial expressions gave one the chills. I tried to picture the artisans painstakingly sculpting each one more than 2,000 years ago- an incredible feat of craftsmanship and devotion. Renting a bike I rode along the ancient city wall, one of the best preserved in China. The mix of old and new, with the city stretching out on either side, made for a surreal experience.

After the big cities, I wanted to see natural surroundings and there’s no better place than Guilin. Cruising down the Li River was like drifting through a traditional Chinese painting. Misty Karst Mountains towered over the water, their reflections creating a dreamlike effect. As we passed by fishermen on bamboo rafts, one couldn’t help but think this was one of the most beautiful places, I’d ever seen, unaffected by the rapid change in other areas.

Yangshuo, a small town nearby, was equally charming. Renting a bike I rode through rice fields, waving at friendly locals. The slower pace was a welcome change, giving time to a visitor to soak it all in.

Chengdu was all about two things: pandas and spicy food. At the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, I watched these adorable creatures laze around, munching on bamboo with zero urgency. It was impossible not to fall in love do with these gentle creatures.

Then came the Sichuan cuisine— bold, spicy and addictive. Braving a traditional hot pot experience, I dipped meats and vegetables into a bubbling, chili-filled broth. My mouth was on fire, but I couldn’t stop eating.

As my trip came to an end, I reflected on everything I had seen and experienced. China was more than just its famous landmarks—it was the warmth of the people, the flavours of the food, and the stories embedded in every ancient alley and modern skyscraper. This journey wasn’t just about places; it was about moments, feelings, and memories that would stay with me forever.

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Discovering Indonesia: A Personal Journey Through Islands and Culture

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By Ayman Munaf

Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.

Jakarta

Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.

Yogyakarta

After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.

National Monument (Monas)

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Kecak dance

Bali

After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.

Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.

Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Komodo Island

My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.

Pink Beach

Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.

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