Travel
On the Rooftop of the world
Deosai Plain – a hidden gem nestled in the heart of the Himalayas.
Born in Spain and growing up in Switzerland, Rocio Otero moved to Japan in 2008 where she was teaching in a school. A passionate cyclist, she began her solo journey from Japan and plans to cycle to her home country Spain in another three vears time frame. It has taken her three years to reach the subcontinent. Experiencing the sights and sounds, hospitality and endurance as she covers cities, this brave young woman has chosen to leave her comfort zone to complete her dream. Currently she is in Pakistan and has spent time in the breathtaking rooftop of the world Deosai.
By the time I reach Chillam from Astor, I have grown enormously intrigued by the desoi plains that open space at the far-off edge of the northern areas of Pakistan. I am the first cyclist across Deosai this year, the police tell me. They also suggest I should have an escort across the uninhabited plains, but I insist I don’t need any escort, that I feel safe and that I can manage alone. After all, trusting my intuition has always proved right in my three-and-a-half years on the bicycle.
Chillam is the last village before Sadpara, so I get some food supplies for the days ahead. In the morning I pack some chapattis and boiled eggs and start the climb to the Pass. On the fringes of the park the landscape soon starts to change, almost like building the surreal beat of what lies ahead. When I reach Chachur Pass at 4266m, I can barely describe my first view of Sheosar Jheel with the late afternoon light filtering through the cloudy sky and casting shapes on the mirrored surface of the lake. I want time to stop right there and make my descent to the camp last forever.
Surprisingly, the owner of the camp tent and small hotel is expecting my arrival. Some previous visitor had told him that a lady on a bicycle was on her way to Sheosar. He welcomes me with a warm cup of chai and a meal of chana and roti. It is still early and I go for a stroll around the lake before setting my camp.
When I wake up next morning, the meadows are covered with a thin layer of melting snow and the surrounding landscape is dressed with yet another different mood from the day before. I gather some information about the possibilities of finding food and tea on the way to Bara Pani, and after the usual breakfast of roti and chai, I continue to the next camp.
It is the end of August. The autumnal colors are getting ready for winter and the temperatures have started to drop. The uneven and unpaved surface of the track makes it challenging on the bicycle and I find myself pushing my heavy load in some stretches where the gravel and stones put too much pressure on my rims and tires. Another exercise of endurance, I think to myself. But these are the off-roads and landscapes I have grown to love. It is off season and devoid of the crowds of visitors that visit each year in summer. It seems almost like Deosai has been waiting for me to cast its spell, to dazzle my senses with its vastness and project the clarity of light and color into the deserted wilderness. A real fairy tale suspended above 4000 meters, one of the highest plateaus in the world above the tree line.
By now the news of a foreign lady cycling along across Deosai has spread and when I reach shatung Nala, the next wildlife station and police check post I am invited for another doodh patti chai favorite drink in cold weather
The magnitude of the undulating meadows and the infinite expanse of the horizon pierces my skin. The fields are carpeted with patches of bright-coloured wild flowers and the all-embracing silence is only interrupted by the whistle of the marmots, the murmurs of the pristine water streams and the bleating of the goat herds passing by. And at times, the occasional roaring of the jeeps and motorbikes, whose passengers word stare at me in wonder. Some would stop for a chat or ask or a picture. Others would approach me with words o encouragement or praise my efforts which I accept with so much joy.
In Barapani, I sleep in one of the wildlife tents at the research station of the Himalayan Wildlife Project, an initiative that was established in an attempt to monitor the remaining Himalayan brown bears under serious threat, and to learn about their behavior and habitat. What! Are there bears here? I cannot hide my excitement at the prospect of having a safe encounter with a bear! Staying another day to go tracking wildlife seems an obvious choice.
The following day, with a group of wildlife game watchers, we hike across the marsh before we intercept a female bear with her two cubs grazing and lazing around at the far edge of the swampy meadow. Observing them through binoculars is exciting, but having them run at full speed in your direction is such a rush of adrenaline that words won’t suffice to describe what it is like to have a family of bears so near, barely five meters from us, while standing silently our ground with our hands raised up high to show we are no threat. After a second day of tracking wildlife in Barapani, I leave with is my senses fully awakened to the loud and amusing whistle of the marmots that emerge from their burrow to search for food, or to the rapid flight of the birds hunting for fish in the nullah.
By now, the news of a foreign lady cycling alone across Deosai has spread and when I reach Shatung Nala, the next wildlife station and police check-post, I am invited for another doodh patti chai, my favourite drink in cold weather. The road surface has not improved yet, and my progression is slow. In the afternoon, I reach the last camp at Ali Malik with a big bag full of litter I collected from the roadside. Despite the efforts of the Wildlife Project to keep Deosai litter free, I am still saddened by how little responsibility people take for the garbage they produce, throwing it out the window without a thought.
At Ali Malik, I set my camp in an abandoned tourist lodge and warm up inside the tiny hotel with a cup of tea. Local herders coming down from the high pastures and visitors heading for the park stop for a hot drink. I am told the road improves soon after Ali Malik, so the next day I am enjoying the fastest descent in days towards Sadpara lake.
But I feel like going slow, trying to make the most if it. I feel as if I am leaving a bit of myself behind. Deosai is a soul-stirring experience after all, one of the wonders of Pakistan and a unique place on earth.
By Ariba Syed
China, a land where ancient history meets modern marvels, welcomed me with open arms. From the futuristic skyline of Shanghai to the timeless beauty of the Great Wall, every stop in the journey felt like stepping into a different world. The sights, the people, and the flavours of this incredible country made it a trip to remember.
My adventure began in Beijing, a city where history whispers from every corner. Standing in the middle of the vast Tiananmen Square, one couldn’t help but feel humbled by its significance. A short walk away, the Forbidden City loomed before me—an imperial palace so grand that it felt Prince like stepping back in time. Wandering through its courtyards, I imagined the emperors, princes and concubines who once lived within its walls.
Of course, no trip to Beijing is complete without seeing the Great Wall. Choosing the Mutianyu section, which was both breathtaking and less crowded I climbed those steep stone steps and paused to take in the view-rolling green hills stretching as far as the eye could see. It was one of those moments that make you feel both small and connected to something much greater.
Next up was Shanghại a city of contrasts that perfectly blends the past and future. Walking along the Bund, I was struck by the different colonial-era buildings on one side and the sleek, modern skyscrapers on the other. Strolling through Yu Garden, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city, delicate pavilions and koi-filled ponds made it easy to forget the hustle and bustle outside.
At night, I headed to the top of the Shanghai Tower and looking down at the sea of city lights felt like I was in a sci-fi movie. The energy of this place was infectious- fast paced, exciting and full of possibilities.
Xi’an was a history lover’s dream. The Terracotta Army was even more impressive in person than I had imagined. Seeing thousands of life-sized warriors standing in silent formation, each with unique facial expressions gave one the chills. I tried to picture the artisans painstakingly sculpting each one more than 2,000 years ago- an incredible feat of craftsmanship and devotion. Renting a bike I rode along the ancient city wall, one of the best preserved in China. The mix of old and new, with the city stretching out on either side, made for a surreal experience.
After the big cities, I wanted to see natural surroundings and there’s no better place than Guilin. Cruising down the Li River was like drifting through a traditional Chinese painting. Misty Karst Mountains towered over the water, their reflections creating a dreamlike effect. As we passed by fishermen on bamboo rafts, one couldn’t help but think this was one of the most beautiful places, I’d ever seen, unaffected by the rapid change in other areas.
Yangshuo, a small town nearby, was equally charming. Renting a bike I rode through rice fields, waving at friendly locals. The slower pace was a welcome change, giving time to a visitor to soak it all in.
Chengdu was all about two things: pandas and spicy food. At the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, I watched these adorable creatures laze around, munching on bamboo with zero urgency. It was impossible not to fall in love do with these gentle creatures.
Then came the Sichuan cuisine— bold, spicy and addictive. Braving a traditional hot pot experience, I dipped meats and vegetables into a bubbling, chili-filled broth. My mouth was on fire, but I couldn’t stop eating.
As my trip came to an end, I reflected on everything I had seen and experienced. China was more than just its famous landmarks—it was the warmth of the people, the flavours of the food, and the stories embedded in every ancient alley and modern skyscraper. This journey wasn’t just about places; it was about moments, feelings, and memories that would stay with me forever.
By Ayman Munaf
Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.
Jakarta
Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.
Yogyakarta
After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.
Bali
After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.
Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.
My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.
Pink Beach
Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.
By Wajiha Farooq
Imagine a tiny island surrounded by a big, blue ocean!
Known as the jewel in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is a land of ancient history, vibrant culture and breathtaking landscape, creating an unforgettable experience for visitors. From mist-shrouded mountains and beaches to the astonishing scenic beauty, this island nation is a delight for travelers.
Nature in Sri Lanka comes as a breath of fresh air. With wild animals such as elephants and leopards running around forests and jungles, the Wilpattu Reserve stands out in the list. Elephants are abundant in the country and Colombo even has an elephant orphanage, which tourists love to visit. If you like plants and trees, Kandy’s Royal Botanical Garden is the place to be in with the largest tree spread on both sides and its branches supported by thick sticks. Nuwara Eliya on a height has lush green hills covered in tea bushes. And not to forget, the waterfall known as Hunas Falls is like giant showers from the sky. For a first-time visitor, it was indeed a treat to visit this island.
Not only did we see scenic beauty, we also had the opportunity to step back in time as we explored the traces of ancient civilizations that have left their mark on the island. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, with its towering rock fortress, is a testament to the originality of Sri Lanka’s ancestors. Wandering through the ruins of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, once bustling capitals of mighty kingdoms, we marvelled at the intricately-carved temples and stupas that dot the landscape.
No visit to Sri Lanka is complete without a journey through lush green tea gardens. The scenic train ride through the rolling hills of Nuwara Eliya, where emerald-green tea plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, it is a treat to see a tea factory, witness the time-honoured process of tea production and savour a freshly brewed cup of Ceylon tea while soaking in breathtaking scenery.
Our next stopover was the pristine coastline; Sri Lanka boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. From the tranquil shores of Mirissa to the surf break of Arugam Bay, there’s a beach for every taste. Diving into the crystal-clear water of Hikkaduwa to explore vibrant coral reefs and unwinding on the soft sands of Trincomalee, the trip turned out to be a pure delight.
The country’s diverse religious landscape, reflected in its festivals and rituals, is another aspect that might catch your attention. We were lucky to witness the annual Esala Perahera in Kandy, which is a spectacular procession honouring the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, featuring colourful parades, traditional music and elaborated costumes. Another one was the Tamil Thai Pongal Festival, where farmers celebrate the harvest season with prayers and feast, showcasing the importance of agriculture in Sri Lankan culture.
The most interesting part of the visit was the warmth and hospitality of the Sri Lankan people. From the bustling market of Colombo to the remote villages of the hill country, we were greeted with smiles and open arms, whether sharing meals with the local family or participating in a traditional ceremony. We were also enchanted by their leather goods, wood items and crockery and everyone in our group went on a buying spree.
Despite its rich cultural heritage and traditions, Sri Lanka has faced its recent share of challenges, including a decade long civil war that started in 1983 and ended in 2009, and natural disasters such as the 2004 tsunami. However, the resilience and spirit of its people have enabled the country to overcome adversity and emerge as a great tourist destination.
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