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On the Rooftop of the world

Deosai Plain – a hidden gem nestled in the heart of the Himalayas.

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Born in Spain and growing up in Switzerland, Rocio Otero moved to Japan in 2008 where she was teaching in a school. A passionate cyclist, she began her solo journey from Japan and plans to cycle to her home country Spain in another three vears time frame. It has taken her three years to reach the subcontinent. Experiencing the sights and sounds, hospitality and endurance as she covers cities, this brave young woman has chosen to leave her comfort zone to complete her dream. Currently she is in Pakistan and has spent time in the breathtaking rooftop of the world Deosai.

By the time I reach Chillam from Astor, I have grown enormously intrigued by the desoi plains that open space at the far-off edge of the northern areas of Pakistan. I am the first cyclist across Deosai this year, the police tell me. They also suggest I should have an escort across the uninhabited plains, but I insist I don’t need any escort, that I feel safe and that I can manage alone. After all, trusting my intuition has always proved right in my three-and-a-half years on the bicycle.

Chillam is the last village before Sadpara, so I get some food supplies for the days ahead. In the morning I pack some chapattis and boiled eggs and start the climb to the Pass. On the fringes of the park the landscape soon starts to change, almost like building the surreal beat of what lies ahead. When I reach Chachur Pass at 4266m, I can barely describe my first view of Sheosar Jheel with the late afternoon light filtering through the cloudy sky and casting shapes on the mirrored surface of the lake. I want time to stop right there and make my descent to the camp last forever.

Surprisingly, the owner of the camp tent and small hotel is expecting my arrival. Some previous visitor had told him that a lady on a bicycle was on her way to Sheosar. He welcomes me with a warm cup of chai and a meal of chana and roti. It is still early and I go for a stroll around the lake before setting my camp.

When I wake up next morning, the meadows are covered with a thin layer of melting snow and the surrounding landscape is dressed with yet another different mood from the day before. I gather some information about the possibilities of finding food and tea on the way to Bara Pani, and after the usual breakfast of roti and chai, I continue to the next camp.

It is the end of August. The autumnal colors are getting ready for winter and the temperatures have started to drop. The uneven and unpaved surface of the track makes it challenging on the bicycle and I find myself pushing my heavy load in some stretches where the gravel and stones put too much pressure on my rims and tires. Another exercise of endurance, I think to myself. But these are the off-roads and landscapes I have grown to love. It is off season and devoid of the crowds of visitors that visit each year in summer. It seems almost like Deosai has been waiting for me to cast its spell, to dazzle my senses with its vastness and project the clarity of light and color into the deserted wilderness. A real fairy tale suspended above 4000 meters, one of the highest plateaus in the world above the tree line.

The magnitude of the undulating meadows and the infinite expanse of the horizon pierces my skin. The fields are carpeted with patches of bright-coloured wild flowers and the all-embracing silence is only interrupted by the whistle of the marmots, the murmurs of the pristine water streams and the bleating of the goat herds passing by. And at times, the occasional roaring of the jeeps and motorbikes, whose passengers word stare at me in wonder. Some would stop for a chat or ask or a picture. Others would approach me with words o encouragement or praise my efforts which I accept with so much joy.

In Barapani, I sleep in one of the wildlife tents at the research station of the Himalayan Wildlife Project, an initiative that was established in an attempt to monitor the remaining Himalayan brown bears under serious threat, and to learn about their behavior and habitat. What! Are there bears here? I cannot hide my excitement at the prospect of having a safe encounter with a bear! Staying another day to go tracking wildlife seems an obvious choice.

The following day, with a group of wildlife game watchers, we hike across the marsh before we intercept a female bear with her two cubs grazing and lazing around at the far edge of the swampy meadow. Observing them through binoculars is exciting, but having them run at full speed in your direction is such a rush of adrenaline that words won’t suffice to describe what it is like to have a family of bears so near, barely five meters from us, while standing silently our ground with our hands raised up high to show we are no threat. After a second day of tracking wildlife in Barapani, I leave with is my senses fully awakened to the loud and amusing whistle of the marmots that emerge from their burrow to search for food, or to the rapid flight of the birds hunting for fish in the nullah.

By now, the news of a foreign lady cycling alone across Deosai has spread and when I reach Shatung Nala, the next wildlife station and police check-post, I am invited for another doodh patti chai, my favourite drink in cold weather. The road surface has not improved yet, and my progression is slow. In the afternoon, I reach the last camp at Ali Malik with a big bag full of litter I collected from the roadside. Despite the efforts of the Wildlife Project to keep Deosai litter free, I am still saddened by how little responsibility people take for the garbage they produce, throwing it out the window without a thought.

At Ali Malik, I set my camp in an abandoned tourist lodge and warm up inside the tiny hotel with a cup of tea. Local herders coming down from the high pastures and visitors heading for the park stop for a hot drink. I am told the road improves soon after Ali Malik, so the next day I am enjoying the fastest descent in days towards Sadpara lake.

But I feel like going slow, trying to make the most if it. I feel as if I am leaving a bit of myself behind. Deosai is a soul-stirring experience after all, one of the wonders of Pakistan and a unique place on earth.

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Revisiting Karachi’s Interesting Places

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By Shanaz Ramzi

The class of ’75 from St Joseph’s Convent High School, held its 50th reunion recently. Our group of friends since school days were also present. While some of us live in Pakistan, many live abroad. Hence, planning the four-day reunion in Karachi was as much fun as the reunion itself, for the challenge was to pack the four days with sights and activities that even the Karachiites hadn’t seen or done in a long time.

We began day one, a Friday, with a coaster trip to our alma mater. We had coordinated with the school headmistress, Sister Margarette, who happened to have taught us too. Without anyone knowing, we had also invited our few favourite teachers to join us. Our group was as thrilled to see them as they were to see us. We took a tour of the magnificent institution, which thankfully looked largely the same as when we were in school, As it is a heritage building, with a few additions of new blocks on the premises.

After leaving the school we made our way to LuckyOne Mall, to show off the largest mall in South Asia to our visitors. We were received by their marketing department and given a guided tour of the whole mall. After partaking of lunch at the Food Court we were taken to Onederland, their amusement centre where we were treated to complimentary rides of our choice. If visiting the school hadn’t transported us to our childhood, whizzing down slides, bumping dodgem cars, and shrieking on roller coaster rides surely did!

Our next stop was Bahria Town, where we cruised through the immaculately laid out roads, and made strategic ‘international’ stops in front of the Eiffel Tower, and the Crookedest Street in the World, for photographs. After tea and ice cream at Murree Hills, we left to freshen up and then partake of an early dinner at the popular Kolachi, Do Darya, restaurant.

The next morning we started early to have brunch at the new Café Imran on the national highway. It must be said here that the long drives we had undertaken from day one turned out to be as much fun as the destinations themselves, for we transformed into giggly teenagers who burst into laughter at the smallest pretext. Laughter is indeed the best medicine, and we all felt rejuvenated despite our action-packed trips.

After brunch we set off for the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 17th century Shah Jahan Mosque, in Thatta. It was a blazingly hot day but once you stood within its corridors, the ventilation, brick structure, and amazing architecture of the mosque kept us cool and comfortable. Our next stop was Koonj Farm at Gharo, where we stopped for tea.

The third morning we set off for our city tour. Starting with Mohatta Palace, which surprisingly many were visiting for the first time, we followed it up with the well-maintained Flagstaff House, now known as Quaid e Azam House, where a knowledgeable guide informed the visitors about the history of the artifacts and the rooms on display.

Frere Hall was next, but unfortunately, was closed, being a Sunday. Considering that Sundays are more feasible for families to visit such historical sites, one hopes that the management will re-think their weekly holidays and keep the venue open over the weekend, like the other heritage sites. In fact, at Flagstaff House we were happy to note that there were other visitors also, especially foreigners, and I am sure they must have also wanted to visit Frere Hall.

We then made our way to the heart of the city, beginning with the iconic Empress Market, notoriously used for executions in the days of the British Raj, which became one of the most popular shopping sites for groceries over the years. Our next stop was Karachi Metropolitan Corporation, the erstwhile Karachi Municipal Corporation, which is also closed on Sundays, but thanks to connections, we had managed to get not only an entry into the historic building, but also a guided tour, right up to the rooftop.

Our next destination was a short distance away – the Denso Hall Rahguzar, a landscaped Walking Street, created by Heritage Foundation in 2021. In the middle of what was once a busy, dirty, over-crowded, land-grabbed lane, with shops spilling over with their wares, and motorcyclists and pushcarts jostling for space amidst pedestrians this oasis became a model street designed to mitigate the negative impact of densification and environmental degradation in Karachi’s historic core. A living testament to the adage ‘If there is a will there is a way,’ this street, paved with terracotta tiles hand-made by women who used to beg for a living, has four Miyawaki forests in the centre of the street, offering a cool respite to passersby and shoppers.

Our last stop for our city tour was TDF Ghar, a Dawood Foundation project that has converted what was initially an old residence of a Hindu family into a museum-cum-café, retaining many of the antique artifacts that belonged to the family, and adding interesting elements for the benefit of the visitors. We had brunch there and then left for Sandspit to enjoy the cool, nay cold, sea breeze blowing over the Arabian Sea, as we devoured a live scrumptious barbecue dinner, and shared stories from our past that can only be shared among old friends, no matter after how long you may be meeting them.

Our last day had been left for shopping as no girls’ trip or outing can be complete without splurging on at least some souvenirs and gifts. So, after breakfast at Khudee, which supports Down’s syndrome children by providing them internships, the morning was spent going around Bohri Bazaar and Zainab Market, and the afternoon at Dolmen Mall, Clifton. Dinner was at Creek Walk in Phase VIII where everyone had a great time trying out different gastronomical delights of their choice.

The last item on this hectic four-day itinerary was watching a movie, bringing back childhood memories of sleepovers, and culminating the reunion on a high, nostalgic and sad note that the four days had whizzed by so quickly. But it left us all determined to reschedule a reunion, in five years this time – as we can’t afford to wait another 50 anymore!

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Exploring the Wonders of China

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By Ariba Syed

China, a land where ancient history meets modern marvels, welcomed me with open arms. From the futuristic skyline of Shanghai to the timeless beauty of the Great Wall, every stop in the journey felt like stepping into a different world. The sights, the people, and the flavours of this incredible country made it a trip to remember.

My adventure began in Beijing, a city where history whispers from every corner. Standing in the middle of the vast Tiananmen Square, one couldn’t help but feel humbled by its significance. A short walk away, the Forbidden City loomed before me—an imperial palace so grand that it felt Prince like stepping back in time. Wandering through its courtyards, I imagined the emperors, princes and concubines who once lived within its walls.

Of course, no trip to Beijing is complete without seeing the Great Wall. Choosing the Mutianyu section, which was both breathtaking and less crowded I climbed those steep stone steps and paused to take in the view-rolling green hills stretching as far as the eye could see. It was one of those moments that make you feel both small and connected to something much greater.

Next up was Shanghại a city of contrasts that perfectly blends the past and future. Walking along the Bund, I was struck by the different colonial-era buildings on one side and the sleek, modern skyscrapers on the other. Strolling through Yu Garden, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city, delicate pavilions and koi-filled ponds made it easy to forget the hustle and bustle outside.

At night, I headed to the top of the Shanghai Tower and looking down at the sea of city lights felt like I was in a sci-fi movie. The energy of this place was infectious- fast paced, exciting and full of possibilities.

Xi’an was a history lover’s dream. The Terracotta Army was even more impressive in person than I had imagined. Seeing thousands of life-sized warriors standing in silent formation, each with unique facial expressions gave one the chills. I tried to picture the artisans painstakingly sculpting each one more than 2,000 years ago- an incredible feat of craftsmanship and devotion. Renting a bike I rode along the ancient city wall, one of the best preserved in China. The mix of old and new, with the city stretching out on either side, made for a surreal experience.

After the big cities, I wanted to see natural surroundings and there’s no better place than Guilin. Cruising down the Li River was like drifting through a traditional Chinese painting. Misty Karst Mountains towered over the water, their reflections creating a dreamlike effect. As we passed by fishermen on bamboo rafts, one couldn’t help but think this was one of the most beautiful places, I’d ever seen, unaffected by the rapid change in other areas.

Yangshuo, a small town nearby, was equally charming. Renting a bike I rode through rice fields, waving at friendly locals. The slower pace was a welcome change, giving time to a visitor to soak it all in.

Chengdu was all about two things: pandas and spicy food. At the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, I watched these adorable creatures laze around, munching on bamboo with zero urgency. It was impossible not to fall in love do with these gentle creatures.

Then came the Sichuan cuisine— bold, spicy and addictive. Braving a traditional hot pot experience, I dipped meats and vegetables into a bubbling, chili-filled broth. My mouth was on fire, but I couldn’t stop eating.

As my trip came to an end, I reflected on everything I had seen and experienced. China was more than just its famous landmarks—it was the warmth of the people, the flavours of the food, and the stories embedded in every ancient alley and modern skyscraper. This journey wasn’t just about places; it was about moments, feelings, and memories that would stay with me forever.

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Discovering Indonesia: A Personal Journey Through Islands and Culture

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By Ayman Munaf

Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.

Jakarta

Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.

Yogyakarta

After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.

National Monument (Monas)

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Kecak dance

Bali

After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.

Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.

Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace
Komodo Island

My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.

Pink Beach

Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.

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