Travel
On the Rooftop of the world
Deosai Plain – a hidden gem nestled in the heart of the Himalayas.

Born in Spain and growing up in Switzerland, Rocio Otero moved to Japan in 2008 where she was teaching in a school. A passionate cyclist, she began her solo journey from Japan and plans to cycle to her home country Spain in another three vears time frame. It has taken her three years to reach the subcontinent. Experiencing the sights and sounds, hospitality and endurance as she covers cities, this brave young woman has chosen to leave her comfort zone to complete her dream. Currently she is in Pakistan and has spent time in the breathtaking rooftop of the world Deosai.
By the time I reach Chillam from Astor, I have grown enormously intrigued by the desoi plains that open space at the far-off edge of the northern areas of Pakistan. I am the first cyclist across Deosai this year, the police tell me. They also suggest I should have an escort across the uninhabited plains, but I insist I don’t need any escort, that I feel safe and that I can manage alone. After all, trusting my intuition has always proved right in my three-and-a-half years on the bicycle.

Chillam is the last village before Sadpara, so I get some food supplies for the days ahead. In the morning I pack some chapattis and boiled eggs and start the climb to the Pass. On the fringes of the park the landscape soon starts to change, almost like building the surreal beat of what lies ahead. When I reach Chachur Pass at 4266m, I can barely describe my first view of Sheosar Jheel with the late afternoon light filtering through the cloudy sky and casting shapes on the mirrored surface of the lake. I want time to stop right there and make my descent to the camp last forever.
Surprisingly, the owner of the camp tent and small hotel is expecting my arrival. Some previous visitor had told him that a lady on a bicycle was on her way to Sheosar. He welcomes me with a warm cup of chai and a meal of chana and roti. It is still early and I go for a stroll around the lake before setting my camp.
When I wake up next morning, the meadows are covered with a thin layer of melting snow and the surrounding landscape is dressed with yet another different mood from the day before. I gather some information about the possibilities of finding food and tea on the way to Bara Pani, and after the usual breakfast of roti and chai, I continue to the next camp.

It is the end of August. The autumnal colors are getting ready for winter and the temperatures have started to drop. The uneven and unpaved surface of the track makes it challenging on the bicycle and I find myself pushing my heavy load in some stretches where the gravel and stones put too much pressure on my rims and tires. Another exercise of endurance, I think to myself. But these are the off-roads and landscapes I have grown to love. It is off season and devoid of the crowds of visitors that visit each year in summer. It seems almost like Deosai has been waiting for me to cast its spell, to dazzle my senses with its vastness and project the clarity of light and color into the deserted wilderness. A real fairy tale suspended above 4000 meters, one of the highest plateaus in the world above the tree line.

By now the news of a foreign lady cycling along across Deosai has spread and when I reach shatung Nala, the next wildlife station and police check post I am invited for another doodh patti chai favorite drink in cold weather
The magnitude of the undulating meadows and the infinite expanse of the horizon pierces my skin. The fields are carpeted with patches of bright-coloured wild flowers and the all-embracing silence is only interrupted by the whistle of the marmots, the murmurs of the pristine water streams and the bleating of the goat herds passing by. And at times, the occasional roaring of the jeeps and motorbikes, whose passengers word stare at me in wonder. Some would stop for a chat or ask or a picture. Others would approach me with words o encouragement or praise my efforts which I accept with so much joy.

In Barapani, I sleep in one of the wildlife tents at the research station of the Himalayan Wildlife Project, an initiative that was established in an attempt to monitor the remaining Himalayan brown bears under serious threat, and to learn about their behavior and habitat. What! Are there bears here? I cannot hide my excitement at the prospect of having a safe encounter with a bear! Staying another day to go tracking wildlife seems an obvious choice.
The following day, with a group of wildlife game watchers, we hike across the marsh before we intercept a female bear with her two cubs grazing and lazing around at the far edge of the swampy meadow. Observing them through binoculars is exciting, but having them run at full speed in your direction is such a rush of adrenaline that words won’t suffice to describe what it is like to have a family of bears so near, barely five meters from us, while standing silently our ground with our hands raised up high to show we are no threat. After a second day of tracking wildlife in Barapani, I leave with is my senses fully awakened to the loud and amusing whistle of the marmots that emerge from their burrow to search for food, or to the rapid flight of the birds hunting for fish in the nullah.

By now, the news of a foreign lady cycling alone across Deosai has spread and when I reach Shatung Nala, the next wildlife station and police check-post, I am invited for another doodh patti chai, my favourite drink in cold weather. The road surface has not improved yet, and my progression is slow. In the afternoon, I reach the last camp at Ali Malik with a big bag full of litter I collected from the roadside. Despite the efforts of the Wildlife Project to keep Deosai litter free, I am still saddened by how little responsibility people take for the garbage they produce, throwing it out the window without a thought.
At Ali Malik, I set my camp in an abandoned tourist lodge and warm up inside the tiny hotel with a cup of tea. Local herders coming down from the high pastures and visitors heading for the park stop for a hot drink. I am told the road improves soon after Ali Malik, so the next day I am enjoying the fastest descent in days towards Sadpara lake.
But I feel like going slow, trying to make the most if it. I feel as if I am leaving a bit of myself behind. Deosai is a soul-stirring experience after all, one of the wonders of Pakistan and a unique place on earth.
Travel
Discovering Indonesia: A Personal Journey Through Islands and Culture

By Ayman Munaf
Traveling has always been more than just sightseeing for me. It’s a way to connect, to understand and to find the heartbeat of a place. And Indonesia, this vast, island-studded country was calling me for an adventure. From the bustling cities to serene temples, sun-soaked beaches to ancient jungles, every corner seemed to whisper a story waiting to be heard. Here’s my journey through this magical land, one that left me with memories and lessons I’ll carry for a lifetime.
Jakarta
Touching down in Jakarta was like diving into a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, and smells. This wasn’t just a normal city; it was an experience. As I wandered through Kota Tua, the Old Town, the colonial architecture stood as a reminder of the past era, contrasting sharply with the modern skyscrapers and lively street vendors around it. The National Monument (Monas) towered above the cityscape, offering a panoramic view that seemed to sum up Jakarta’s dynamic spirit.
Yogyakarta
After Jakarta’s energy, Yogyakarta known as Java’s cultural capital felt like stepping back in time. My journey here was all about exploring the city’s ancient temples, each carrying stories of devotion and craftsmanship. Standing before Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, as the sunrise cast its golden glow over the stone stupas, was a mesmerizing experience. But Yogyakarta had more to offer. Prambanan, a Hindu temple complex dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, was astonishing. The detailed carvings, each with a tale of gods and goddesses, spoke volumes about Indonesia’s rich culture.



Bali
After days of touring the temple and exploring the city, Bali was a welcome change, a place where time seemed to slow down. I spent my days wandering through Ubud’s Tegalalang Rice Terrace, a stunning green landscape sculpted by generations of farmers. Walking through the fields, I could hear the soft rustling of leaves and the distant hum of nature, a symphony of peace.
Visiting the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where monkeys roamed freely there was something magical about watching them in a place that felt almost sacred. Uluwatu Temple is perched high on a cliff with waves crashing against the rocks below. As the sun set, I watched a traditional Kecak dance, the dancers’ rhythmic chanting echoed through adding an enchanting end to the day.


My last stop was Komodo Island, a place known not just for its beauty but for its remarkable inhabitants: the Komodo dragons. Walking on the island felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Guided by a park ranger, I trailed behind him through the savannas and there I saw a Komodo dragon sunbathing by a tree. This creature is so ancient, it seemed like another era. The experience was thrilling, humbling, and a little nerve wracking. This wasn’t a zoo; it was their territory, and I was just a guest.

Pink Beach
Equally stunning were the beaches surrounding the island, especially the enchanting Pink Beach. Pink Beach truly lives up to its name, with soft sand tinted with a delicate pink presence of microscopic red organisms mixed with white sand. Swimming in the crystal clear waters here felt surreal, like stepping into a dream. I’ll treasure that memory as one of the highlights of my journey, a vivid reminder of the unique and diverse landscapes Indonesia has to offer.
Culture
Discovering the Charms of Sri Lanka

By Wajiha Farooq
Imagine a tiny island surrounded by a big, blue ocean!
Known as the jewel in the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka is a land of ancient history, vibrant culture and breathtaking landscape, creating an unforgettable experience for visitors. From mist-shrouded mountains and beaches to the astonishing scenic beauty, this island nation is a delight for travelers.
Nature in Sri Lanka comes as a breath of fresh air. With wild animals such as elephants and leopards running around forests and jungles, the Wilpattu Reserve stands out in the list. Elephants are abundant in the country and Colombo even has an elephant orphanage, which tourists love to visit. If you like plants and trees, Kandy’s Royal Botanical Garden is the place to be in with the largest tree spread on both sides and its branches supported by thick sticks. Nuwara Eliya on a height has lush green hills covered in tea bushes. And not to forget, the waterfall known as Hunas Falls is like giant showers from the sky. For a first-time visitor, it was indeed a treat to visit this island.

Not only did we see scenic beauty, we also had the opportunity to step back in time as we explored the traces of ancient civilizations that have left their mark on the island. The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, with its towering rock fortress, is a testament to the originality of Sri Lanka’s ancestors. Wandering through the ruins of Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura, once bustling capitals of mighty kingdoms, we marvelled at the intricately-carved temples and stupas that dot the landscape.

No visit to Sri Lanka is complete without a journey through lush green tea gardens. The scenic train ride through the rolling hills of Nuwara Eliya, where emerald-green tea plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, it is a treat to see a tea factory, witness the time-honoured process of tea production and savour a freshly brewed cup of Ceylon tea while soaking in breathtaking scenery.
Our next stopover was the pristine coastline; Sri Lanka boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. From the tranquil shores of Mirissa to the surf break of Arugam Bay, there’s a beach for every taste. Diving into the crystal-clear water of Hikkaduwa to explore vibrant coral reefs and unwinding on the soft sands of Trincomalee, the trip turned out to be a pure delight.
The country’s diverse religious landscape, reflected in its festivals and rituals, is another aspect that might catch your attention. We were lucky to witness the annual Esala Perahera in Kandy, which is a spectacular procession honouring the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, featuring colourful parades, traditional music and elaborated costumes. Another one was the Tamil Thai Pongal Festival, where farmers celebrate the harvest season with prayers and feast, showcasing the importance of agriculture in Sri Lankan culture.

The most interesting part of the visit was the warmth and hospitality of the Sri Lankan people. From the bustling market of Colombo to the remote villages of the hill country, we were greeted with smiles and open arms, whether sharing meals with the local family or participating in a traditional ceremony. We were also enchanted by their leather goods, wood items and crockery and everyone in our group went on a buying spree.
Despite its rich cultural heritage and traditions, Sri Lanka has faced its recent share of challenges, including a decade long civil war that started in 1983 and ended in 2009, and natural disasters such as the 2004 tsunami. However, the resilience and spirit of its people have enabled the country to overcome adversity and emerge as a great tourist destination.
Culture
Unforgettable Memories of Smoky Mountains

By Shanaz Ramzi
When my husband and I were planning a trip to the US, we roped in some of our friends to agree to meet up at a destination unexplored by any of us.
The destination we chose was the Smoky Mountains, located in Tennessee. My husband and I chose to drive there, stopping en route at Charlotte in North Carolina, four hours away, for the night. Determined not to miss the opportunity to see a new city, we checked into our hotel, Ballantine, and soon after made our way uptown. We had heard there were some amazing museums in Charlotte, but unfortunately by the time we reached their vicinity and finally found parking, most of the museums had closed. However, luckily, Mint Museum which was also on our to-see list was open, and we eagerly explored its galleries. Established in 1936 as North Carolina’s first art museum, The Mint Museum is a leading, innovative cultural institution of international art and design, boasting permanent collections of contemporary art, craft, ceramics and more.
Happy that we managed to get at least some time at the museum before it too shut down, we took a stroll in the uptown area, taking note of the many interesting museums this small city had to offer, and stopping to eat their famous Golden Cow Creamery ice cream, which was a bit disappointing, unfortunately.

We set off for the Smoky Mountains next morning. A scenic drive brought us to the cabin that had been booked atop the mountains by one of our friends, and being the first to arrive, from our group of seven we spent our time unpacking and exploring the amazing three-floor facility. We spent a relaxing night chatting till late and devouring the scrumptious food that the two couples had brought that could feed an army for a month!
The next morning, we left for downtown Gatlinburg, a happening, quaint, and touristy area with restaurants, activities and shops. We took a cable car ride to Anakeesta, an adventure park located on the Smoky Mountain range, and despite the heat, enjoyed our trek there. It is a lovely place to bring children to for the whole day, culminating with Lumina Village which only comes alive at night. Back on ground level, we made a beeline for Mexican Grill, and didn’t regret our choice as the food was scrumptious and plentiful, as is normally the case anywhere in the US.
While we were still eating, it began to pour and discovered the reason behind Smoky Mountain’s name. As it started to pour a thick fog developed over the mountains giving the impression that the mountains were smoking!

The next morning, we set off for Pigeon Forge, which is nothing short of Las Vegas for children and families. With some attraction at literally every block and each so eye-catching that we wanted to visit them all. Finally, we decided to visit Titanic, a fantastic recreation of the ill-fated ship on its maiden voyage to the US, it had all of us engrossed in its interactive offerings by treating us as one of the passengers or crew members who were actually on board the ship that fatal night, while simultaneously providing us with a wealth of information about the creation of the unique ship, its beleaguered passengers, and the calamity they faced.
Returning to the cabin for a light lunch, we relaxed for a bit and then got dressed for a dinner show we had booked for later that day. The choices were plentiful, but most were again geared toward kids. Hence, we selected the one that had the most appeal for adults, the Hayfield and McCoy dinner show, especially as the one we would have all preferred – the Dolly Parton show as this was her hometown after all – was not being offered then. A fun, action-packed, farcical musical depicting the famous feud between cousins Hayfields and McCoys, it keeps you entertained while serving you all-you-can-eat Southern homestyle food. It was another story that some of us had to satiate ourselves with salad, mashed potatoes and corn on the cob, as the chicken was not halal.

We had kept the next day for exploring the Smoky Mountain National Park Drive as we felt we couldn’t possibly go back without at least hiking a bit in the mountains. So, we walked around the park, sat around the creek, and enjoyed the refreshing air before heading back home for lunch.
The night turned out to hold a triple treat for all of us. Not only did we spend a delightful time catching up with old friends, and eating delicious grilled fish, but the aroma from all the barbecuing on the balcony drew out a whole family of bears right under our cabin, in the forest below. As they looked up staring at us, we counted our blessings that we were at the height that we were, and took their videos. And then, to top it all, it was a blue moon night, so we saw the most amazing and rare sight from a vantage point. We couldn’t have asked for more!
The next morning, we packed up all our belongings – which seemed to be as much as when we had arrived despite consuming so much food – and made our way to the airport to drop off our friends and head back to our next destination.
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